The cultural heart of Tamil Sri Lanka, with grand Hindu temples, a star-shaped Dutch fort, island hopping and a cuisine all its own.
Far from the beach resorts of the south, Jaffna has a character of its own: bicycles on quiet lanes, palmyra palms, colourful Hindu temples and a strong Tamil culture. Since the end of the civil war in 2009 it has become easier to reach, and it rewards travellers with a very different side of Sri Lanka.
Nallur Kandaswamy Kovil
The golden-towered Nallur Kandaswamy Kovil, dedicated to Lord Murugan, is the most important Hindu temple in the country. The present temple dates from the 18th century. During the Nallur Festival in July and August, 25 days of processions draw huge crowds of devotees.
- Men remove their shirts before entering; women should dress modestly.
- Shoes are left outside the gate.
History and landmarks
- Jaffna Fort: first built by the Portuguese and rebuilt by the Dutch as a star-shaped fort; walk its walls for views over the lagoon.
- Jaffna Public Library: rebuilt after it was destroyed in 1981, a symbol of the city's love of learning.
- Point Pedro: the northernmost point of Sri Lanka.
- Casuarina Beach: shallow, calm water on Karainagar island.
Island hopping
Causeways and ferries link Jaffna to the islands. On Nainativu, both the Buddhist Nagadeepa Vihara and the Hindu Nagapooshani Amman Temple draw pilgrims.
Taste of Jaffna
Try Jaffna crab curry, fiery with local spices, odiyal kool (a seafood soup), and sweet palmyra jaggery. Jaffna mangoes are some of the island's best.
Getting there
The Yal Devi train runs from Colombo in about seven hours. There are also domestic flights and the A9 highway.
